Saturday, January 16, 2010


We met, we packed, we took photos and we left - only an hour late (blame Paul Lee!).
In the front acting as co-pilots and djs ...ish we had Mac and Ginge and at the helm of the tour bus was pappa duck

- Cillian. In at the rear the flock included Judiths (Dirty and Innocent), Andrew (methane machine), Jen (sleeping

bag caterpillar), Darragh (D-maillon), Fergal (Fingers Fitz, also Twinkle Toes) and we picked up Conor (Buster - "13

flushes and a coat hanger later...") and finally Aislinn (bee lady). The 400-odd mile journey north began in

Limerick with news of terrible weather further north - but that didn't deter us! Belfast bound we made a quick grub

stop in Dundalk where the group split to sample the local gastronomic offerings. On the road again we arrived into

Belfast and attempted to blag our way on to an earlier ferry to speed up the journey. Some of us bedded down for the

night in the cramped bus conditions listening to some dodgy music courtsey of Andrew and rythmic snoring a la conor

while some brave souls continued their club work arguing with some rather irate ferry port staff. Finally the move

was on, we had been accepted to sail the rough seas but first we had to solve the mystery of the missing boot...

On board the boys delighted at the gaming area and promises of hamsters on the big screen. The rest of us took

advantage of the extra leg room and put the heads down for the short crossing. The fantastic hospitality of the

ferry company (not to be mentioned here...) was sampled, and from the moaning, they weren't all that impressed! In

no time at all, after a few hairy moments on rough seas we arrived in Stranraer. Patiently we waited for Tesco to

let the hungry early morning shoppers descend on its isles...to stock up for the days travelling. The miles were

clocked up and soon we were in the Glasgow suburbs stuck in traffic after a lorry had dumped it's load in the middle

of a roundabout. Some of us took advantage of the slow moving and jumped out to stretch the legs and tend to other

necessary activities!

A road side pit stop on the banks of bonny lough Lomond allowed for some snow ball throwing at some what "engaged"

men. Soon we found ourselves embraced in the beauty of the Glencoe valley - with Buachaill Etive Mor which had a

lovely dusting of snow guarding the entry of our winter mountaineering paradise. We had a brief stop to play in the

snow again and post a little letter to the GMIT crowd who's bus we had found down in the valley. The novelty of snow

fights would soon ware off!

Back on board the bus for the final leg we pushed on to Fort William (FW) and the bunk house which would be our

living area for the next week and more. The bunkhouse was actually larger than I expected. The tales which had been

told didn't do the place justice! We were greeted with a large living/sleeping area, two seperate bunk rooms (one

which would be designated a ladies only room!) a tiny (but rather cozy) kitchen and some showers, toilets and gear

storage areas. We dumped our bits and pieces and headed to FW to sort out boot rental and food for the next few

days. Our first trip to town involved large amount of time wandering through outdoor shops, debating the benefits of

various pieces of gear, trying on rigid boots which would allow the attachment of crampons and stocking up on food.

Shopping done we made the trip back to the bunk to feed up and chill out. Some made the long long treck across the

car park to the pub to sample the local beverages on offer and try their hand at pool. There was no insomnia in the

bunk house tonight...



Day 1 Thursday - 14th Jan 2010

Today marked the beginning of the first day of training for the advanced group and a preperation day for the rest of

the gang. Sadly we were to loose one of our beloved group members, who had done a marvelous job selecting tunes to

entertain the group on the hours travelling. Ginge had to leave and will be sadly missed by all during the trip.

You're in our hearts on the ice, in the pub and in the drying room (ooohhh errrr!)

The advanced group off their training with a nice long slog into Stub Coire Nam Bheith where they found some nice

water ice. They covered placing ice screws, ice climbing and various other anchors to use on vertical ice. They

topped their day off by climbing pitches of cenral gully and then abseiling back down only to repeat the same slog

out. A good day none the less.

The rest of the gang slept late, chilled out at the bunk house, took a walk around the local forest/hills and then

made their way into FW. After realising the bus had passed - we took on a hitching challenge - which provided

fruitful and all 5 of us piled into the back of a nice swanky jeep piloted by some very friendly locals who told us

tales of their family. Shortly we were loose on the streets of FW to shop and do some final preperation for our

first day of training. Supplies got, we chilled out in a recommended cafe and made our way back to the bunk with one

of our guides.

Back at base camp after some serious negoiating with sharp knives and hot pots in the seriously miniscule kitchen at

feeding time we got down to the serious business of gear, what to bring, hot to fit it, where to put it, what to eat

and when to get your lazy ass out of bed! We fitted crampons and avoided impailing any bodily parts on the sharp

spikes. The guide opened up his bag for us and explained what he was carrying and where...we were listening closely

and hoping not to get lumbered with any "group" gear...like a 50m rope! With bags packed and hill foods secured into

multiple zip lock bags the final preperations were made. Heads went down early, with optional detours to the pub...

At the pub, some card games were unleased on some unsuspecting non competitive types, and the arguments began...

Day 2 - Friday 15th Jan 2010

So it began...

The early morning wake up - courtsey of Mac - loud heavy music right..seeping into your mostly alseep brain...what a

way to start the day! The advanced group headed off on their second day of serious stuff while the rest of us headed

back into the Glencoe Valley to get aquainted with the snow and ice.

Two groups were formed with the two leaders and we tracked up into the valley towards the summit of Buachill Etive

Beag. On the slopes we learned about the snow, the different types and what the dangers associated with each of them

are. We would find out about temperature changes on the hill, hot to adjust your pace/layers to suit what ever it is

your doing. Things soon progressed to higer ground and the ice axes were brough out. We were introduced to the

"multi purpose" nature of this tool. Initially we started using it as a waling stick which could be dug into the

snow to act as another point of support. The next concept we explored was ice arrests - effectively how to stop

yourself from sliding down a snow covered slope using your ice axe. At first I was terrified of impailing myself

with the rather sharp sickle shapped device, but after practicing the technique without the sickle of ice death, we

were all arresting with ease from various starting positions. We were introduced to some techniques which would aid

in our progress across the snow, and spent quite a lot of time kicking steps into the snow and establishing

platforms on the snow for the all important food/water/delalying stops.

The previous days in scotland had seen the start of warmer weather causing quite a thaw in the snow, making the

conditions quiet messy for our training, also meaning we would have to hunt for the snow/ice conditions we would

like to carry out our training.

After some playing about in the snow, with our new found toys we decided to head to the summit - in poor visibility

the maps were out and we were attempting to predict how long the ascent would take in the slow trudge in the snow.

Along the way we came across an alpine ptarmagan, some sort of a small mole type creature scurrying across the

frozen ground and we played with the wonder of frozen lakes! After a long slow descent we survived our first day on

the hills and were glad to be back in the warmth of the bunk house to be fed and watered.

For the advanced group they headed for No 6 Gulley on Aonach Dubh on Glencoe - "a classic scottish ice route which

rarely comes into condition" according to pappa duck - a Grade 4. The group were up and down and back in time to

bring Mac to the doctor to cure his ailments and facilitate his return to the hills. At the health centre some

interesting "massage oil" was found - not so long lasting it appears - doesn't always do what it says on the tin.

The dangerous dance of cooking followed to feed the hungry and a trip to the pub for those who were able followed.

Over a few quiet pints we learned about "Buster" - an independant lifeform and identity which he created...some

things are NEVER meant to be shared!

During one of the shopping trips to FW Aslinn decided to pick up a small pellet gun for her granny to scare off the unwanted birds from her garden. This weapon would be involved in many target practices and challenges in the bunk house over the comming days. This would become an obsession for some, who could be found filling their down time creating targets to be shot at from across the bunkhouse - starting with a burning match, a spoon, tissue paper, to a full sized target hung over an empty bunk (your lucky your not here now Ginge - we're shooting up in your bunk!).

Today also saw the release or establishment of the puppet possee...originally the hitch hiking gang, each member was assigned a small furry animal to accompany them on their adventures in the scottish hills and further a field. Let me take the time to introduce them...

Nuala Nevis - a purple cow, somewhat shy young lady but sure to reveal more about her character over the next week.
Jeremy Nibbles - a penguin - two characters, one prefers a nice glass of merlot on a saturday night, which the other prefers to hit the hooch big style in the Buckfast form!
Nelly the Elephant - a blue elephant who has been locked up by her Fritzl father only to be occassionally released from some unsavoury activities and to give birth to some inbred offspring.
Deliah Duck - a yellow duck who is generous, kind and willing to help, a definite alter ego! A happy ending is just a question away.
Felicity Fox Hound - a slighlty ginger purebred terrier who sets high standards for her carrier.

Day 3 - Saturday 16th Jan 2010

The beginner group were out for their second day of training while the advanced group (less Mac) headed Stob CoirE nan Lochan where Cillian climbed Dorsel Arete and Andrew The ordinary route...for an ordinary guy. Cillian and crew experience the pain of hot aches - "pulling your finger nails out with a vice grips" - Cillian and Mac. Pocket hand warmers all the way!

The beginner group (plus Mac) headed toward the high car park on Nevis - which failed miserably despite some valliant efforts to destroy the ice and grit the road from all involved. Starting from the North face car park (where the fuzz had taken a wee slide on the ice into a rock - lol) we tackled an ice covered slog through the forest and up into the valley which lead to the CIC hut. The weather was howling - freezing rain...a new experiencefor some! At the hut we divided into two groups, and headed out to sample the ice and play with our toys! One group climbed up towards no 3 gulley to use as our outdoor class room. On route we got the chance to fit our crampons and learn how to walk again, john wayne style! Combined with some penguin tricks (thanks for the tips Mr Nibbles!) we tracked up the valley in search of a frozen playground. In the deep snow we learned about snow anchors including bucket seats and buried axe achors and snow bollards. Bucket seats involved effectively carving an armchair in the snow, and attempting to make it secure enough to take the load of a person climbing on a rope up to you.

A late day meant we were walking out by head torch with some gently jogging down the slopes. A serious thaw had occurred and the majority of the ice had dissapeared on lower ground.

With the weather closing in, we abondoned plans for "The Ben" for later in the week and decided to chill out for the evening and take an easy one tommorrow. Blogging done, drinking continuing...

On several occassions the use of slang by the group has demanded some explinaitons...the most memorable being the exlpination of clonic irrigation...it began with an analogy of a slurry agigigtor and a power wash...other terms needing explination..."scum" - aka the police, slime out of a pond. "fairy cakes"...small buns.... the list will continue..

Following the 3rd plate of dinner... Cillian had the wisdom of describing Conor as "a crematorium"...interesting analogy. s

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