Friday, January 22, 2010

The rest...Day 4-9....

Sunday - Day 4

Darragh –“Ouch, My cock hurts!”

You’re first thought upon begin climbing with a harness. If you're male,and significantly endowed of course!

The majority of the group took a rest day today, but as one group member was heading off home, he was brought out to get a taste for some technical climbing. Conor and Andrew climbed No 3 Gully Buttress on the Ben. The rest of us, mere mortals, needed some down time. After large amount of sleep, we took a wander into town to do some food shopping, topping up the essentials - bread sticks, brioche, miller and white cider.

We decided to stretch our legs in the afternoon and took a walk down to Steall Falls in Glen Nevis. On route we stopped to say hello to some highland cows before a short walk up to a beautiful hanging valley with a wire bridge crossing the river. We took our lives in our hands, some more than other (Fergal) and ventured across the water on the bridge. Fergal gave it a go in an alternative fashion, "limp wristed", aka arms and legs crossed over, pulling his way across the ice cold river. Luckily Pappa Duck was on hand to assist..and we all made it safely across and back, with multiple bouncing and attempted knock off attempts, snow balls and all.

Meanwhile Conor was getting the "best ride of his life" along side Andrew up on the buttress. On the first pitch up a few ice falls, Conor took a few falls, and without line of sight with his lead...things got interesting. The weather was pretty nasty, visibility about 5m with crappy snow and a positive lack of working head torches..the men soldiered on. Eventually reaching the donkey trail on the other side...with the promise of a bottle of buckfast and feed for buster, the worm, Jeremy and Mr. nibbles...they began their trek down to a gang of some what merry group members awaiting their return. There were multiple offers to assist the sodden men in removing their wet clothing, and they were soon in the drinking spirit with hot jager to warm their souls!

In the hours before the regroup, a huge BBQ was cooked up, with veggie alternatives to suit all. Cillian char grilled some meat and the team (some pre hydrated with some dodgy white lightening cider) got the veggies prepped and skewered. After a huge feed, the group antics progressed into a game of "never have i ever" and some interesting truths were revealed...not to be mentioned here...what happens in scotland stays in scotland!

Getting the wet men home became an epic with the gang embarking on a road trip, and calling into town for an alcohol pick up on the way back. The 3 stooges were let loose drunk and unsupervised onto the wet streets of FW...Mac, Fergal and Darragh wandered into some local pub where they got chatting to some local bar ladies. After getting quickly acquainted with the locals, the boys promised to call back again soon...I’m sure they locals will be praying they don't return!!

Things got a little violent when we squeezed into the bunkhouse - with some egos a little larger than usual! Mac wildly swinging a technical axe (hammer) to try and get people to bed...it worked in the end!

Monday - Day 5

Woken early by Macs lovely wake up call - a boot through the door and an invite to the gay bar! The group sent off one of it's beloved members - and gathered their sore heads and dodgy stomachs for another day in the hills.

It was a fantastic day, very mild, no wind and very little cloud. The group split into two groups, one group headed out to do some climbing with Darrach and Andrew on Sgorr Dhearg while the other group followed a trail on the creaking mountain – aka Beinn a Bheithir .

Darragh and Judith (innocent) worked together on a rope with Andrew soloing along side them, and Jen and Fergal were shown the ropes by Darrach. Each group member took a turn at leading, placing gear, belaying and setting up anchors. It was a really educational day which finished in a flurry after reaching the summit. After assessing the snow quality and doing some sliding in the snow on rope from the summit, crampons were ditched and some serious snow sliding took place. After taking hours to ascend hill, they slid on their behinds down over 200m in less than a minute. Fun times!! A long slog of a walk out followed which lead to some wonderful views over the lakes in the night with the lights of bailecholish twlinking in the distance.

Meanwhile, Cillian, Mac, Ash and Judith (dirty) followed a track up a nearby valley in order to reach the lower slopes of Beinn A Bheithir. After a quick lunch the guys began their slog up an ever so slightly loose scree slope in order to gain access to the bottom of a gully, their goal for the day. On reaching the gully Cillian went in search of some protection while Mac checked the avalanche danger (finding that it was somewhere you really didn’t want to be). Almost simultaneously they shared an internal "oh shit!!!"

Following some ice/snow flying down over a cliff above the group...

Mac- "Cillian, was that you?"

Cillian- "no..."

Mac- "Where did that come from?"

Cillian- "You don’t want to know"

After that Mac and Cillian swiftly began the descent showing their immense knowledge of rope work lowering Ash and Judith with nothing but a rope, a sling and an ice axe and the friendly help of a tree for the second pitch leaving Mac to abseil down. After a few near rock slides and a couple of slips they flew back out the track. Moral of the story know when to back out. Ash and Judith learnt that Scotland is no joke.

Later that evening, after necessary Nevis prep was done, we had a quick blackboard session with Darrach on avalanches - what causes them, how to avoid them, reading the avalanche forecast and what to do if you find yourself caught in one. After the day that was, it was very beneficial to expel some of the myths associated. Bags packed and lunches made heads hit the pillows early in prep for the Ben the following day.

Tuesday - Day 6 Nevis Take 1

A 5am start...sleepy heads dragged out of beds, excited and ready for the Ben. Set out from the North Face car park in the dark and made good time up to the CIC hut where we stopped for breakfast. It was a beautiful morning with stronger winds promised for the afternoon, but we had hoped to make it to the summit before the weather closed in.

The wind had picked up as we walked through the valley, and as we moved up the ridge towards Carn Dearg it soon became apparent that conditions weren't suitable for the route we had chosen. We stopped to attempt to fit crampons in biting winds filled with stinging spin drift. Quickly heads were put together and it was decided to turn the day into a snow skills practice session - which provided very useful for the entire group.

We tracked back towards the CIC hut and found a nice snowy slope to practice ice axe arrests and belaying off a snow bollard in Macs capable hands. After a very cozy lunch inside the club kishu (group shelter) we made our way over towards some ice to practice in crampons. We all got the chance to practice the different techniques used to walking in spikes, once comfortable we settled into a quick jig on the ice to show off our crampon skills! Afterwards we all got the chance to play with the technical axes while ascending a slightly steeper slope - getting a taste for what might come later in the week.

After a solid day in the snow we tracked back through the valley in the dark and back to the bus. A failed attempt at the Ben - but a very worthwhile day all the same. Fingers crossed we'd get another attempt later in week.

Wednesday - Day 7

A rest day for some, and a challenging day for others. Mac and Darragh decided to stay home and clean the bunk house and rest their weary bodies and blistered feet. They attempted to make it into Fort William, but plans didn't come together.

The rest of the gang headed to Stob Corrie Na Lachan to attempt some climbing and hiking. Darrach and Andrew soloed Dorsal Arete (Grade II) along side Jen and Fergal on one rope and Cillian and Judith (innocent) on the other rope.

Aislinn and Judith (dirty) hiked up into the valley to the summit of Siob Mor. The walk was a challenge, lots of steps but gaining height quickly. After a quick stop at the lakes below the climb we went our separate ways and started heading up the steeper slopes to the start of the route. Crampons on we attached ourselves to the ropes and got our teeth into leading and belaying. Each rope member took a turn at leading the route (some sections a little hairier than others!) and then belaying their followed up. Under Darrach and Andrews watchful eyes we choose suitable belay locations, set up anchors, placed gear and made our way up the arĂȘte. The wind whipped the spindrift into our eyes at times, and at the top summit eyebrows, eyelashes, gear, ropes the lot were covered in icicles. It was a fantastic route and all climbers were elated when they reached the safety of the top. Belaying from the edge of a cornice (attached to an anchor of course!) was an experience!

Cillian - "only god an my laundry person knew how I felt at that time" - describing a stickier section at the top of the route! After taking over 3 hours to reach the summit, it was back to sliding down on the ice crusted snow as a quick escape back to lower ground. Light was fading fast and the walk off was illuminated by snow on higher ground. Andrew took a rather spectacular fall on the ice on lower ground - very graceful!

The group gathered back at the bus, exhausted but very satisfied after a very rewarding day in the snow and ice covered glencoe hills!

Back at the bunk house after feeding time it was time for the first ever OPC movie night. After some minor seating rearrangements we set up a mini cinema under sleeping bags and relaxed into War of the Buttons. Some relaxed a little more than others - snoring their way through the end credits. The die hards stayed on for a second movie, with sleepy heads heading on to the warmth of their cots!

Thursday - Day 8 - REST DAY!!

Finally, a full rest day. A late start by all (even the true mountaineers) lead to a quick shopping trip in FW, followed by a trip to Ice Factor, then on to the leisure centre and finally a relaxed feed of fish and chips in the local hot spot.

Ice factor was a great way to spend a down day. In the warmth of an indoor climbing wall with extensive routes to suit all ability we got to practice climbing techniques, belaying, and leading. It was nice to shed a few layers and relax between climbs over coffee or multiple plates of chips (Fergal!). Some had considered entering the giant fridge to test their hands at ice climbing in the controlled conditions but the cost put them off. We would venture out ourselves and find some ice to play with later in the week.

With tired arms we headed to the leisure centre to revive aching muscles with some hydro therapy - and water slides!! After building up an appetite we descended onto the club hot spot to refuel on fish and chips and kick back outside of the bunkhouses somewhat squished quarters.

This evening saw the addition of a new member to the group - Jessie a friend of Aislinn. She would have the pleasure of joining the 4 ladies in the ladies dorm for the remainder of the trip.

After a long rest day we made our way back to the bunk house to pack up and plan the next days activities. After checking the weather and avalanche reports it was decided the Ben was on! Heads down and alarms set...the morning would only come too quickly!!

Friday - Day 9 - THE BEN - TAKE 2!

A slightly later start this morning - 5.30am (that extra 30 mins made all the difference!!). Again we headed for the North Face car park, but with a different route in mind. We planned to climb through the forest into the valley, cross the river and follow a spur on the right hand side over to the path that lead to the zig zags which would hopefully bring us to the top without any serious problems. In the dark, heads were put down and we started the long slog in to the steps before we would attempt the river crossing. Finding a suitable place to cross the river wasn't as easy as we thought it would be. We tracked the river bank looking for a spot that would allow a dry crossing for all. Unfortunately Cillian took a slip into a rather deeper section of the river while attempting to scout a possible crossing. Soaked through, that was the end of his trip for the day, but he made himself useful as a crossing aid while standing knee deep in the river. Once we all made it across with dry feet the heads were put down for the long hard slog across the spur to the track. We came across some male young deer on the hills, who were rather curious and followed up us the track for a bit.

With Fergal at the helm we made good progress up towards the zig zigs, with eyes peeled for any possible avalanche dangers. We came across a few slopes which had the potential to drop, but thankfully we passed them all (twinkle toed) without any incident. Soon it was time to attach the crampons and we were all getting excited as we neared the summit! Unfortunately visibility was poor with quite a lot of low cloud, but the winds were light and the weather was pleasant in general. Mac took over leading the group as we reached the cairns at the top. Effectively the top levels off with a number of stone structures (cairns) signposting your route to the summit along a wide ridge. Visibility was quite low so compasses were out. Mac lead us safely to the top where we took the necessary photos with numerous flags and had a quick celebration and reunion of the finger puppets.

Soon we were on the trot back down along the donkey trail which is effectively the tourist route to the summit. We met a few different groups on the way up - who may have enjoyed a few extra hours in bed! We stopped on the steps to have a bite to eat (thanks Mac) and take in the wonderful views up through Glen Nevis. Soon we could see the hostel at the end of the route - like a giant carrot on a string! Those with sore knees were suffering and the weeks activities were really catching up with peoples feet and muscles. Papa Duck arrived in perfect time to whisk us back to the bunkhouse and collect Jessie who had been out hiking in the glen all day. Despite the short 10 mile trip back the majority of the hikers were snoozing by the time we reached Inchree. Sleeping and eating were the order of the night, with a celebratory trip to the pub at pints o clock - after a massaging lesson to help soothe some mountain aches.

Ok i'm tired of this blogging, the Ben took it out of me...until tomorrow...


Saturday, January 16, 2010






We met, we packed, we took photos and we left - only an hour late (blame Paul Lee!).
In the front acting as co-pilots and djs ...ish we had Mac and Ginge and at the helm of the tour bus was pappa duck

- Cillian. In at the rear the flock included Judiths (Dirty and Innocent), Andrew (methane machine), Jen (sleeping

bag caterpillar), Darragh (D-maillon), Fergal (Fingers Fitz, also Twinkle Toes) and we picked up Conor (Buster - "13

flushes and a coat hanger later...") and finally Aislinn (bee lady). The 400-odd mile journey north began in

Limerick with news of terrible weather further north - but that didn't deter us! Belfast bound we made a quick grub

stop in Dundalk where the group split to sample the local gastronomic offerings. On the road again we arrived into

Belfast and attempted to blag our way on to an earlier ferry to speed up the journey. Some of us bedded down for the

night in the cramped bus conditions listening to some dodgy music courtsey of Andrew and rythmic snoring a la conor

while some brave souls continued their club work arguing with some rather irate ferry port staff. Finally the move

was on, we had been accepted to sail the rough seas but first we had to solve the mystery of the missing boot...

On board the boys delighted at the gaming area and promises of hamsters on the big screen. The rest of us took

advantage of the extra leg room and put the heads down for the short crossing. The fantastic hospitality of the

ferry company (not to be mentioned here...) was sampled, and from the moaning, they weren't all that impressed! In

no time at all, after a few hairy moments on rough seas we arrived in Stranraer. Patiently we waited for Tesco to

let the hungry early morning shoppers descend on its isles...to stock up for the days travelling. The miles were

clocked up and soon we were in the Glasgow suburbs stuck in traffic after a lorry had dumped it's load in the middle

of a roundabout. Some of us took advantage of the slow moving and jumped out to stretch the legs and tend to other

necessary activities!

A road side pit stop on the banks of bonny lough Lomond allowed for some snow ball throwing at some what "engaged"

men. Soon we found ourselves embraced in the beauty of the Glencoe valley - with Buachaill Etive Mor which had a

lovely dusting of snow guarding the entry of our winter mountaineering paradise. We had a brief stop to play in the

snow again and post a little letter to the GMIT crowd who's bus we had found down in the valley. The novelty of snow

fights would soon ware off!

Back on board the bus for the final leg we pushed on to Fort William (FW) and the bunk house which would be our

living area for the next week and more. The bunkhouse was actually larger than I expected. The tales which had been

told didn't do the place justice! We were greeted with a large living/sleeping area, two seperate bunk rooms (one

which would be designated a ladies only room!) a tiny (but rather cozy) kitchen and some showers, toilets and gear

storage areas. We dumped our bits and pieces and headed to FW to sort out boot rental and food for the next few

days. Our first trip to town involved large amount of time wandering through outdoor shops, debating the benefits of

various pieces of gear, trying on rigid boots which would allow the attachment of crampons and stocking up on food.

Shopping done we made the trip back to the bunk to feed up and chill out. Some made the long long treck across the

car park to the pub to sample the local beverages on offer and try their hand at pool. There was no insomnia in the

bunk house tonight...



Day 1 Thursday - 14th Jan 2010

Today marked the beginning of the first day of training for the advanced group and a preperation day for the rest of

the gang. Sadly we were to loose one of our beloved group members, who had done a marvelous job selecting tunes to

entertain the group on the hours travelling. Ginge had to leave and will be sadly missed by all during the trip.

You're in our hearts on the ice, in the pub and in the drying room (ooohhh errrr!)

The advanced group off their training with a nice long slog into Stub Coire Nam Bheith where they found some nice

water ice. They covered placing ice screws, ice climbing and various other anchors to use on vertical ice. They

topped their day off by climbing pitches of cenral gully and then abseiling back down only to repeat the same slog

out. A good day none the less.

The rest of the gang slept late, chilled out at the bunk house, took a walk around the local forest/hills and then

made their way into FW. After realising the bus had passed - we took on a hitching challenge - which provided

fruitful and all 5 of us piled into the back of a nice swanky jeep piloted by some very friendly locals who told us

tales of their family. Shortly we were loose on the streets of FW to shop and do some final preperation for our

first day of training. Supplies got, we chilled out in a recommended cafe and made our way back to the bunk with one

of our guides.

Back at base camp after some serious negoiating with sharp knives and hot pots in the seriously miniscule kitchen at

feeding time we got down to the serious business of gear, what to bring, hot to fit it, where to put it, what to eat

and when to get your lazy ass out of bed! We fitted crampons and avoided impailing any bodily parts on the sharp

spikes. The guide opened up his bag for us and explained what he was carrying and where...we were listening closely

and hoping not to get lumbered with any "group" gear...like a 50m rope! With bags packed and hill foods secured into

multiple zip lock bags the final preperations were made. Heads went down early, with optional detours to the pub...

At the pub, some card games were unleased on some unsuspecting non competitive types, and the arguments began...

Day 2 - Friday 15th Jan 2010

So it began...

The early morning wake up - courtsey of Mac - loud heavy music right..seeping into your mostly alseep brain...what a

way to start the day! The advanced group headed off on their second day of serious stuff while the rest of us headed

back into the Glencoe Valley to get aquainted with the snow and ice.

Two groups were formed with the two leaders and we tracked up into the valley towards the summit of Buachill Etive

Beag. On the slopes we learned about the snow, the different types and what the dangers associated with each of them

are. We would find out about temperature changes on the hill, hot to adjust your pace/layers to suit what ever it is

your doing. Things soon progressed to higer ground and the ice axes were brough out. We were introduced to the

"multi purpose" nature of this tool. Initially we started using it as a waling stick which could be dug into the

snow to act as another point of support. The next concept we explored was ice arrests - effectively how to stop

yourself from sliding down a snow covered slope using your ice axe. At first I was terrified of impailing myself

with the rather sharp sickle shapped device, but after practicing the technique without the sickle of ice death, we

were all arresting with ease from various starting positions. We were introduced to some techniques which would aid

in our progress across the snow, and spent quite a lot of time kicking steps into the snow and establishing

platforms on the snow for the all important food/water/delalying stops.

The previous days in scotland had seen the start of warmer weather causing quite a thaw in the snow, making the

conditions quiet messy for our training, also meaning we would have to hunt for the snow/ice conditions we would

like to carry out our training.

After some playing about in the snow, with our new found toys we decided to head to the summit - in poor visibility

the maps were out and we were attempting to predict how long the ascent would take in the slow trudge in the snow.

Along the way we came across an alpine ptarmagan, some sort of a small mole type creature scurrying across the

frozen ground and we played with the wonder of frozen lakes! After a long slow descent we survived our first day on

the hills and were glad to be back in the warmth of the bunk house to be fed and watered.

For the advanced group they headed for No 6 Gulley on Aonach Dubh on Glencoe - "a classic scottish ice route which

rarely comes into condition" according to pappa duck - a Grade 4. The group were up and down and back in time to

bring Mac to the doctor to cure his ailments and facilitate his return to the hills. At the health centre some

interesting "massage oil" was found - not so long lasting it appears - doesn't always do what it says on the tin.

The dangerous dance of cooking followed to feed the hungry and a trip to the pub for those who were able followed.

Over a few quiet pints we learned about "Buster" - an independant lifeform and identity which he created...some

things are NEVER meant to be shared!

During one of the shopping trips to FW Aslinn decided to pick up a small pellet gun for her granny to scare off the unwanted birds from her garden. This weapon would be involved in many target practices and challenges in the bunk house over the comming days. This would become an obsession for some, who could be found filling their down time creating targets to be shot at from across the bunkhouse - starting with a burning match, a spoon, tissue paper, to a full sized target hung over an empty bunk (your lucky your not here now Ginge - we're shooting up in your bunk!).

Today also saw the release or establishment of the puppet possee...originally the hitch hiking gang, each member was assigned a small furry animal to accompany them on their adventures in the scottish hills and further a field. Let me take the time to introduce them...

Nuala Nevis - a purple cow, somewhat shy young lady but sure to reveal more about her character over the next week.
Jeremy Nibbles - a penguin - two characters, one prefers a nice glass of merlot on a saturday night, which the other prefers to hit the hooch big style in the Buckfast form!
Nelly the Elephant - a blue elephant who has been locked up by her Fritzl father only to be occassionally released from some unsavoury activities and to give birth to some inbred offspring.
Deliah Duck - a yellow duck who is generous, kind and willing to help, a definite alter ego! A happy ending is just a question away.
Felicity Fox Hound - a slighlty ginger purebred terrier who sets high standards for her carrier.

Day 3 - Saturday 16th Jan 2010

The beginner group were out for their second day of training while the advanced group (less Mac) headed Stob CoirE nan Lochan where Cillian climbed Dorsel Arete and Andrew The ordinary route...for an ordinary guy. Cillian and crew experience the pain of hot aches - "pulling your finger nails out with a vice grips" - Cillian and Mac. Pocket hand warmers all the way!

The beginner group (plus Mac) headed toward the high car park on Nevis - which failed miserably despite some valliant efforts to destroy the ice and grit the road from all involved. Starting from the North face car park (where the fuzz had taken a wee slide on the ice into a rock - lol) we tackled an ice covered slog through the forest and up into the valley which lead to the CIC hut. The weather was howling - freezing rain...a new experiencefor some! At the hut we divided into two groups, and headed out to sample the ice and play with our toys! One group climbed up towards no 3 gulley to use as our outdoor class room. On route we got the chance to fit our crampons and learn how to walk again, john wayne style! Combined with some penguin tricks (thanks for the tips Mr Nibbles!) we tracked up the valley in search of a frozen playground. In the deep snow we learned about snow anchors including bucket seats and buried axe achors and snow bollards. Bucket seats involved effectively carving an armchair in the snow, and attempting to make it secure enough to take the load of a person climbing on a rope up to you.

A late day meant we were walking out by head torch with some gently jogging down the slopes. A serious thaw had occurred and the majority of the ice had dissapeared on lower ground.

With the weather closing in, we abondoned plans for "The Ben" for later in the week and decided to chill out for the evening and take an easy one tommorrow. Blogging done, drinking continuing...

On several occassions the use of slang by the group has demanded some explinaitons...the most memorable being the exlpination of clonic irrigation...it began with an analogy of a slurry agigigtor and a power wash...other terms needing explination..."scum" - aka the police, slime out of a pond. "fairy cakes"...small buns.... the list will continue..

Following the 3rd plate of dinner... Cillian had the wisdom of describing Conor as "a crematorium"...interesting analogy. s